Designed by Luchetti Krelle (ACME, Banksii), the restaurant’s design aims for a muted, tasteful take on jazz-age glamour. There are fluted glass screens curling around tables, decadent touches of velvet, brass and marble and curves as far as the eye can see.

There’s a classical cocktail list to go with the classical space, too. Including a Mode and Gin Tonic ($15), which makes good use of StrangeLove’s dirty tonic, a boutique bitter that draws on raw cinchona bark to impart a distinctive taste. Other cocktails are twists on favourites, like old fashioneds and mojitos. Or you could try something off the wine list — a 2016 See Saw Pinot Noir ($16), for example, is earthy and rich red with plum and cherry notes.

The menu, by Italian-born chef Francesco Mannelli (ex-.est, Balla), embraces simplicity, emphasising quality ingredients in a refined, upmarket bistro style. A starter of kingfish sashimi ($23) shows his visual flair; twists of raw meat are entwined with wine-coloured sweet-and-sour onions, halved macadamias and flecks of green from lettuce leaves.