Although saying goodbye to Pei Modern’s ricotta dumplings and cracking Chardonnay selection has been one of the toughest calls of 2017, we do, at last, have a replacement. From mid-July, Francesco Mannelli (ex-est., Balla, and Uccello) will be settling into the space on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel as head chef of Mode Kitchen & Bar.

Like Pei Modern, the restaurant will fall somewhere between bistro and fine dining. On the menu are simple dishes based on Mannelli’s favourite produce, such as swordfish with citrus, pistachio and radicchio, risotto with fresh Tasmanian truffle and mushrooms, and oven-baked whole perch with fennel, orange and black olive salad. Match your choice with a pick from the 200-strong wine list or go for a cocktail, like the Hemmingway Daiquiri or Rhubarb Fizz.

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